Transport
Getting from Capodichino to Naples — What Actually Works
Alibus, taxi, private transfer — I've tried them all over the past decade. Here's what I use now and what I'd skip.
A food writer's notebook
Notes on pizza, espresso, chaos, and the city my grandmother left but never really left. Written from Rione Sanità.
Transport
Alibus, taxi, private transfer — I've tried them all over the past decade. Here's what I use now and what I'd skip.
Food
Frittatina, cuoppo, sfogliatella, and the pizza a portafoglio that costs less than a coffee. A route through the best of it.
Neighbourhoods
The ancient decumanus that cuts through the centro storico. Churches, street shrines, fried dough, and controlled chaos.
Day Trips
Circumvesuviana, €18 ticket, comfortable shoes. What to prioritize when you can't see everything, and why you should eat before you go.
Neighbourhoods
Centro storico, Chiaia, Vomero, Sanità — each one is a different version of Naples. Here's which fits you.
Day Trips
SITA bus, ferry from Sorrento, or rent a car and regret it. How to do it independently, and why Ravello beats Positano.
Culture
Caffè sospeso, the stand-at-the-bar rule, and why Neapolitan espresso tastes like nothing else. A €1 education in culture.
Culture
Greek quarries, Roman aqueducts, WWII shelters. The parallel city beneath the streets, and how to visit it.
Practical
Pickpockets, scooter theft, and the neighbourhood my mother thinks will kill me. What's real, what's exaggerated.
Day Trips
The hike takes 25 minutes, not the expedition people imagine. How to get there, what you'll see, and why you should go alone.
Day Trips
How to escape the Marina Grande tourist funnel, whether the Blue Grotto is worth the wait, and the walks nobody mentions.
Culture
MANN, Capodimonte, and one small chapel with a sculpture that will rewire your brain. What to see and what to skip.
Practical
Fewer tourists, cheaper hotels, ragù napoletano, and Christmas on San Gregorio Armeno. Why winter might be the best time.